Chic Knits Downloadable Knitting Patterns Chic Knits Downloadable Knitting Patterns Chic Knits Knitting Blog Chic Knits Knitting Tips & Techniques Chic Knits Bonne Marie Burns Free Knitting Patterns
Studio Chic Knit Blog

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

It’s time to hood the Hoodie!


Gwen writes:”…Do you mattress seam everywhere, including the shoulders? Or do you backstitch the shoulders
for more stability?”

For the shoulder seams on this sweater, since it’s Going to Work (meaning heavy use), I like to seam with Slip Stitch Crochet. It is very flexible and sturdy (and wicked fast) – adds a little thickness, but after a blast of steam, it *renders* very flat. That’s one of the cool things about wool (and some other fibers). You can build multiple layers and upon application of heat, that bulk is greatly reduced.

the Knitter’s Companion
you can find this technique on page 78.

I always mattress stitch the side seams (page 73 of above book) – once you do it once or twice, it is very fast and is my favorite. Now that I’ve started teaching workshops, this is something I love to demonstrate. People usually are a little surprised at how fast it can be!

Each to their own, but I would rather spend 10 minutes mattress stitching than wrestling with a one-piece sweater of this size. The structure seaming adds to a garment of this type lends to greater durability and that’s what I’m after. I wear all my sweaters to work, at home, anywhere. This construction process gives me a lot of confidence that what I’m making will last and serve me well.


I especially liked the way the neckline turned out on this with the hood stitches picked up.

Jane writes: “Is this the Twist on your pattern site? I didn’t see the cables on the sleeves in the photo
–is there a variation of the pattern?”

This is a variation of the Twist pattern for sale; I’m thinking of releasing it as version II. What do you think?

32 responses to “Tuesday, March 20, 2007”

  1. Barb Outside Boston says:

    I love cables on sleeves–they make the sleeves so much more interesting to knit that they seem to go so much faster! Plus I find it easier to keep track of the increasing with cables as a kind of counter.
    I say Version II–yes!

  2. Chris says:

    Yes please to version II! :)

  3. Kim U says:

    I agree, Yes! on version II of twist – I’m on a hoodie kick right now :)

  4. Bear Knits says:

    I’d be interested in a Version II, too.

  5. Liz says:

    Yes!! Please if you include a collared version!!

  6. Frank says:

    I’m interested in Version II as well… Well, sans hoodie… Even I probably couldn’t pull off a hoodie… ;)

  7. Deanna says:

    The different versions you’ve created from the Ribby are remarkable. I’d love to see what you come up with for Twist and any of your other patterns.

  8. Bets says:

    It would be great to have this version! I would love all your patterns to be downloadable.

  9. Jennifer says:

    Ooo, I love it!

  10. I’ll add another vote for a version II! I have a Twist in progress but I’m not knitting the sleeves yet (and it’s in hiatus due to my recent sock obsession). I would love to be able to add cabled sleeves.

  11. Frarochvia says:

    Version II yes please! And I would like to be able to buy your patterns, all of them, without downloading… Don’t have a computer. Snerk! And I love the hoodie, I hope you’ll include that with the pattern, too.

  12. Melanie says:

    Indeed! I don’t have Twist yet! I love this updated sleeve and hood.

  13. Vicki says:

    I can still remember the first garment I mattress-stitched — a machine-knit baby sweater — the process was magical then and it’s just as magical (and thrilling!) now, 20+ years later. ; )

  14. Marcia says:

    Just call me Marcy Mattress, because I love me some mattress stitch. I will admit that I tend to put it off when it comes time, once I get going, I’m always disappointed when it’s over.

    And yes to whatever they are saying yes to.

  15. Wanda says:

    Yes, I’m all for mattress stitching. There are garments that I love all done in the round and some with seams. I agree with a pattern such as this one, I would opt for seaming as well. I did not know about the slip stitch crochet method, that’s something I will have to check out as well. And lastly, yes for version II! It’s very nice.

  16. MaryM says:

    Another county heard from — si, si to Twist.2!

  17. Debi says:

    I think Twist 2 is yummy, go for it!

    I’m with you 100% – I LOATHE one piece knitting. It’s just too much yarn flopping around and weighing on my hands. Plus I love to mattress stitch too :)

  18. jessica says:

    Yes please – a version 2 would be wonderful – please let it be a download – we cannot get your hard copy patterns in the UK yet…


  19. Vivian says:

    Yes, please. I would love to see this version of the Twist.

  20. Tracey says:

    Let me see, hmmmm, YEP! Twist II

  21. Marg says:

    Yeah, I was admiring the picked-up stitches too. How do you do that so smo-o-o-othly?

  22. Pam says:

    Oh yes! Please, would love to have the updated pattern with the revisions.

  23. Your hoodie is coming out beautifully. I look forward to seeing the finished sweater.

    I generally use 3-needle bind off for shoulders; I just like the finish.

  24. Bonne Marie says:

    I love the three-needles bind-off too – but don’t always use it.

    Why? For this sweater, which is going to get very heavy use, a sewn finish is much stronger and will support the body of the garment better.

  25. amisha says:

    i love my visits here… i always learn something! have never used slip stitch crochet. i am going to try it… like you, i wear the h*ll out of my sweaters… nonstop! (though admittedly with a much shorter sweater season :) ) i adore matress stitch. so neat and tidy and invisible.
    and your cable photos are making me drool… i can’t get a good pic of my cables… perhaps it’s the green?

  26. Delica says:

    I’m with Marq – how do you pick up stitches so smoothly? Would you consider a pictorial tutorial?

  27. Jane Piotraschhke says:

    Just let me know when I can order Version II!!
    It’s beautiful

  28. Penny says:

    Let me add my voice: yes, please, version II, a Twist hoodie with zipper would be great.

  29. Julia says:

    Yes Please! And if we have already knit 2 Twists will you throw this v2 in gratis? I love the look of this one.

  30. Julia says:

    btw, you are putting a zipper in this one, right? nod, nod.

  31. Bonne Marie says:

    Thanks so much everybody! I really apprectiate it when people take the time to write – kees you~

    Button band versus zipper? Button band on this one – I like to mix it up a little – and right now, I’m in love with buttons…

    Putting a zipper in is relatively easy though – just make your front a little bigger, and the button band a little smaller.

  32. gwen aka tllgrrl says:

    Wow! Thanks so much for answering my question! I’ve done the slip stitch on the shoulders technique. And mattress stitch is what I generally use on side seams. Tho’ I presently find it daunting, I’m working on making it quick and easy-peasy.
    Thanks again!

©Bonne Marie Burns
All Rights Reserved
Unauthorized reproduction in any form prohibited.

Site Design: BigBrain Multimedia/Bonne Marie Burns

"ChicKnits" and "Chic Knits" are the ®Registered Trademarks of Bonne Marie Burns of Portland OR