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Monday Morning Mirth May 9, 2011

Monday Morning Mirth

I’m a little late boarding this bus but it is really something!

It really ISN’T grandma’s knitting anymore!

Witness:

From Revlon: a WIP sample of my favorite – Stockinette Stitch – in some eyeshadows!

From Cargo: the Runway Palette! Love those cables and little buttons!

And now, from Physician’s Formula: Cashmere bronzer – perfect for warmer weather wear!

J’adore this trend – if the makeup folks are embossing their powder palettes with
knitting stitches, baby, we’ve arrived!!


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About the gauge May 5, 2011

Here’s the entire sweater.

Well. Almost.

Now that swatching is finished, it’s time to wind the skeins into mobile balls. Whew. That’s a lot of yarn.

Although I’m sure it is less wear and tear on the fiber, it’s also easier for me to digest as a small task as opposed to one that chases away the muse so this is a process I usually go into one by one, for a couple of reasons.

I have a beechwood (?) swift and a plastic winder that’s anchored to a little step ladder. It seems that no matter how I apply tension or speed on the winder, it’s always a 2-part process to make a usable center-wound ball that isn’t too tightly wound and stressing the yarn. If I wind for less tension, sometimes the ball is so loose, it comes completely off the winder and shoots across the room! If I wind with what feels like normal speed, on the first pass, it’s always too tight, and I re-wind that 1st pass. (Do you wind all your yarn for a project at once?)

I am really in love with this grey. It has a hint of heathering, but is mostly solid. These test shots in the morning light show its basic goodness. ;p

But it is its gauge that we want to explore here.

I went digging in the Studio Chic Knits archives and found this entry from several years ago. Here is the wrap test I did for the CeCe design, which like the Vonica design that I’m making, also uses DK weight yarn knit at 5 sts per inch instead of 5.5 sts per inch.

The wrap test revealed that the behaving size of yarn was: 13 wpi.

Vintage Studio Chic Knits

CeCeWPI.jpg

It was a bit of a Wrap Fest last night at Chez Chic. Imagine, if you will, being surrounded by quite a few balls of yummy spring colored yarns – and then going wack. Or should I say, Wrap.

Bowing to The Geek Within, I sacrificed a wooden ruler and proceeded to cover it with yarn – specifically, yarn I thought might work for the CeCe cardigan. I wrapped each strand side edge-to-side edge around the ruler, no overlap; no gaps, filling the ruler’s 1-inch segments. As I wrapped and wrapped, it got to be colorful and quite enlightening.

All of the yarns you see above wrapped to 13 WPI (Wraps per Inch). This is, I’ve found, referred to as DK weight. Sporting Weight is 14-15 WPI. Worsted is 12.

Some yarns I picked didn’t make it on the ruler – I was dying to try a Gedifra yarn called Wellness, but it was too thick – came out spot on 12 WPI – meaning it was a worsted. Then there was an unlabeled mercerized cotton I had that came out 14. I was intrigued.

Why does this make so much sense compared to the ambiguous title/standards you see elsewhere? Although each yarn is not identical to the others in fiber content and/or spin, they seem to share a common diameter that would indicate they could be used in the same way. [Keep in mind drape characteristics are not identical but very close as unscientifically determined by me feeling all this YARN!]

Does anybody out there always go by this test instead of the ball band? I have a love/hate relationship with ball bands. What they truly reflect is the *Put Up* or weight of the yarn sold, not the Diameter RANGE of it. That’s why there is so much variation (and confusion). Cotton weighs more than wool. Check. But what really determines a yarn’s knitability is diameter and drape. I know the ball bands are a starting point and I would recommend that a knitter use, to begin with, whatever needle size they suggest. But most patterns have the line: OR NEEDLE SIZE TO GET GAUGE for a reason – if you substitute, part of the fun is knowing in advance you might have to deviate from the danger safety of the ball band.

Here are the needle sizes I use for these standard gauges [gauge followed by US needle size]:

24/32   3-5
22/30   4-6
20/28   5-7
18/24   6-8
16/22   9
14/20   10-11

Garçon! Bring me an order of WPI & Swatch to Go, s’il vous plait…


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Begin the Beguine May 3, 2011

Now that Spring is entirely under way here, it’s time to start some sample Fall loveliness to travel this summer to market.

First up at Studio Chic: a wool version of VONICA.

Because the fabric for this garment is meant to be slightly drapey, the original sample was worked with DK yarn knit at a worsted gauge. This is one of our favorite things to do (other styles in our portfolio that use this technique are CeCe and Cerisara, etc.)

We’ve gotten some feedback from people all over the globe about just “what” is DK yarn. Lots of stuff in the US market seems to fall on the heavier side of what other areas use. European & Autralian yarn weight standards don’t match up 100% with many products you see available here.

So while we’re in the process of doing one of our favorite things — a wrap test — we’re going to experiment with some stashed yarn to see if we can push the envelope a little bit with this wool Vonica.

The yarn pictured above is Cascade 220 Sportweight. Now, sportweight is traditionally knit at 6 sts per inch. DK weight yarn is traditionally knit at 5.5 sts per inch. BUT we’ve found lots of evidence that the fiber content and twist of the yarn contributes to quite a bit of overlap with these sizes of yarn.

We cast on for the Left Front of our sweater according to the pattern, using #7 needles, didn’t like the result and have downsized the needles we’ll be using for the Body & Sleeves to a #6 needle. This diameter tool is both meeting gauge and producing a solid but slightly drapey fabric that we really really have a crush on… ;p


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